Sunday, April 22, 2012

Ports to which we are making our second or third visit

Yes, I know that we have not been keeping up-to-date with our adventures in our blog entries. We have many good and not-so-good excuses. Someday I may take the time to list all of them. However, the major excuse is that we are having such a wonderful time on this cruise and wish you were here!

One thing that I have been doing, that does take time but is very rewarding, is preparing a sheet on each of the cities that we have previously visited for distribution to the members of this year's Cruise Critic group at our Port MeetUps that have been initiated by Brian Krueger, this year's leader. We usually discuss two or three ports at one meeting. People have really enjoyed these informal meetings to discuss any tours that members may have booked independently, to have passengers who have already been to the cities share information on sites to see, and, probably most importantly, to learn how to get into the city independent of a tour and where the closest Walmart is. We often have 60 or more people at these meetings and around 70 at our once-a-segment Cruise Critic Luncheon, where Master Chef Antonio Cortese prepares a special pasta dish as an appetizer for the group. We fill almost the entire center section of the Club Restaurant.

I serve as secretary of the group, and one of my self-appointed duties is to prepare a handout about the ports we have visited either on a world cruise or on an independent vacation. Usually, the handout is an entry from our blog edited to one page. Many of our members have thanked me for them and told me that they have copies made for other people at their dining tables. If anyone had said to me five years ago that I would be advising people on what to see and do in cities around the world, I would have laughed and replied it was a funny joke. I cannot believe how much enjoyment and satisfaction I am receiving from this new advocation.

Another member of Cruise Critic suggested that I might be able to catch up on the blog if I submitted only one entry combining new information on all the cities we have previously visited. So that's what I am doing with several photographs attached from each place. (If you do not know what Cruise Critic is, it is a website at cruisecritic.com. If you are taking a cruise, you should not leave home and start sailing without signing up on it!)

GUAM: Where America's Day Begins and Where We Took a Self-Guided Tour--March 6, 2012
When we had taken a three-hour ship's tour of Guam in 2010, our tour guide told us that he wished we were on a six-hour tour because there were so many more sights to see. One of the members of Cruise Critic who had lived in Guam for three years could not think of anything else we should see. (He could hardly believe Guam had enough sights for a three-hour tour.) So we rented a car with Noemi and Sergio. Here is how our day went.

After taking the ship's shuttle to the Hyatt Hotel at 7:55 a.m. where we picked up our rental car, we headed directly to the Post Office at the Airport because we thought it would be less crowded than the one in town. We were the only people from the ship there but the line was still long. We did not leave the Post Office until 11 a.m. Then we drove to the best spot on our self-guide tour, Two Lovers Point. The two lovers were the daughter of the most powerful Charmaro chief and a Charmaro warrior. Unfortunately, the young woman's father wanted her to marry a Spanish Army Captain and forbade her to see her true love. The two lovers met one night with their plan to flee in a canoe. They heard the Spanish soldiers behind them who were searching for them. To escape, the lovers tied their long shining hair together in a knot and jumped off the cliff into the ocean. To this day, people claim to hear the whispers of the two lovers upon the waves proclaiming their undying love. Visitors leave luggage tags on the railing with hearts and locks. The spectacular view was well worth the $3 per person admission charge.

Other sights we stopped at for photo-ops were Sella Bay Overlook, the Magellan Monument that was an unimpressive green and white pillar, Bear Rock and Inarajan Natural Pond filled with fish for snorkelers. When we returned our car at the Hyatt, we had the pleasure of waiting in a long line with at least half the passengers on the ship for a shuttle to return to the Pacific Princess for our sailaway.

BUSAN,KOREA: Not As Enchanting as Two Years Ago and a Little Bit Shabbier--March 15, 2012
When we visited Busan in 2010, we took the most amazing ship's tour to the Beomeosa Temple and Ja-Gah-Ch'l or Aunties' Market that was established by women peddlers during the Korean War. The handout I produced on that tour inspired other passengers to sign up for it. We decided to visit the Tongdosa Temple and the United Nations National Cemetery. Our tour bus boasted as extravagant a decor as our bus in 2010. Our guide told us to call her Pah (pronounced like "paw"). She explained that the city had decreased in population to almost 3 million after exceeding 4 million because the slow economy is causing people to leave the city.

The most impressive thing about the Tongdosa Temple was its setting. On one side of the gate to the temple was the very urban city of Tongdosa while on the other side was a great forest of pine trees, creating a drastic change from city to forest. The river running in front of the temple created a sense of peach and calm. Neither the buildings or the Buddhas were as impressive as those of Beomeosa Temple. Several couples found a shop that sold souvenirs, and our guide had to go in search of them at the time we were supposed to leave. The rest of the tour, her major goal seemed to be to make up the time we lost and get us back to the ship three hours before we had to be aboard so she did not spend one more minute with us than her contract stated. The lesson I, and all other instructors, need to remember from this experience is that our students do not care why things do not go the way the person in charge planned. They only want to receive your very best effort and everything that they assumed they were promised.

On our way to the United Nations Memorial Cemetery, our tour guide told us that Korea had been engaged in a civil war from 1950 to 1953. We remember it as the Korean War. But most of us are unsure of what the definite outcome of that war was. John Renninger, a lecturer told us that Americans have the tendency to think that all revolutions and civil wars end up like our own. However, ours are the exceptions. Almost 60 years later, our guide said that the relationship with North Korea "is not good." She traveled with a tourist group to North Korea. The majority of the group members were in their 60s and 70s and had relative there they wanted to see but were not permitted to talk to them.

At the United Nations Memorial Cemetery, our guide gave us a brief lecture at the tombs of the U.S. soldiers, offered us no brochures, failed to tell us what we could see and gave us only 20 minutes before we were to return to the bus. We accidentally discovered the Memorabilia Hall and Memorial Service Hall but failed to view the Wall of Remembrance (similar to the Vietnam War Monument in Washington, D.C., the UN Forces Monument and the Unknown Soldiers Pathway. We should have spent at least one hour at this magnificent memorial with a guide who ensured we tour the entire cemetery and its buildings and structures.

One thing our tour guide was enthusiastic about was the Aunties Fish Market, which was not on our tour agenda. Several of us asked her if the bus could drop us off there and we would take the ship's shuttle bus back to the Pacific Princess. However, she said that was not possible. So as soon as we arrived at the port gate, a significant number of us jumped off the tour bus and onto the shuttle bus for a brief visit to photograph the colorful, live and unusual fish there. Another lesson to learn from our guide's reaction is that even if one is asked to do something not exciting to that person and would rather be doing something else (providing a tour of the Aunties Market), it is important to do the best possible job in any task assigned.

I did purchase souvenirs for my cousins Kim and Munro and their daughter Emma, who was born in Korea and adopted by them. These items marked "Made in Korea" were actually bought in Korea.

PHUKET: Thailand's Favorite Resort Getaway--March 31
Unless one knows what we experienced the two days before, it is hard to comprehend how excited we were to meet up with the ship that morning and how tired we were. We had taken an independent tour to Angkor Wat, which was fantastic until the day that we were to meet the ship in Singapore on March 29. We missed our connection in Kuala Lumpur that day, discovered that the Lost Cost Carrier Terminal there was the worst airport in the world, could not get a reservation at the only hotel within 40 miles, spent the night sitting up in uncomfortable chairs in the Luxury Lounge of the terminal for a special rate of $110, got up at 5 a.m. to catch our plane to Phuket that did not leave until 7:30 a.m. and then spent that day and night at a five-star resort on the bay several miles from where the Pacific Princess would dock the next day. Yes, this was a living nightmare with a happy but costly ending. Our travel tip for you is to never fly the friendly (?) skies of AirAsia.

The stories that must have circulated around the ship about us failing to reboard in Singapore were probably even more interesting than our actual adventures. I do promise to write blog entries about Angkor Wat and our unbelievable journey to Phuket. As tired as we still were on Tuesday morning, we would have been happy to stay at the Cape Panwa Hotel until check-out time because we had swum in only two of its five pools, had the hotel keep our luggage and take the hotel's shuttle bus into the village if we had not signed up for an independent snorkeling tour to Pee Pee Island with Lannie and Marsha. So we met our party after they debarked the ship at 7:30 a.m. Oh, for a few hours additional sleep!

Barb, from Toledo, Ohio, described this tour the best--it started out slow but it got much better. Ken and I appreciated the slow start because we were not really awake. It took us about an hour to sail to the island. Then we had the opportunity to snorkel twice in stunningly beautiful waters, take photographs of the monkeys on the island and enjoy a beautiful buffet lunch on the beach before returning to the ship. There we discovered just how much laundry we had from our incredible adventure.

CHENNAI, INDIA: A Tour That Is Best Forgotten--April 3, 2012
To be totally honest, we have never visited Chennai. We only changed planes at the airport (on outstanding Kingfisher Air) when we were on our way to the Taj Mahal and India's Golden Triangle last year. However, our independent tour in Chennai so bad that it does not deserve a separate entry. All of us on the tour want to forget it. We were definitely taken advantage of by being underwhelmed and overcharged. Probably the most blatant example of our misuse was when our tour guide took us to a money exchanger where we received the worst exchange rate of anyone else on the Pacific Princess. Then our tour guide went back in the money changer's office after we had finished our transactions. No one on the tour doubted that she was receiving a kickback.

To be fair, we did drive by Marina Beach, the second longest beach in the world, and toured the Tomb of Doubting Thomas and the National Museum where we saw beautiful bronze statues of the Hindu god. On the negative side, we stopped at a silk shop where the crepe silk top that I purchased was really polyester, did not see a dance performance for which we had paid because the students were taking an exam when we arrived, and did not stop at the Government Museum (we also paid the entrance fee) because our guide said it was not impressive but learned from other passengers who toured it that it had much to offer. All we seemed to do was drive back and forth along the same roads in incredible traffic jams. On our drive back to the port, our guide had the audacity to say that she wished we could stay longer in Chennai because there is so much to see. This tour made me want to auction off our 10-year visa to visit India to the highest visitor.

It seems that the best ship tours were the ones that took tours outside the city to different temples. We should mention the tour guide on one of the buses that went to Kanchipuram, the "golden city of 1,000 temples," who received many negative reviews. She had the passengers on her bus take off their shoes three blocks before the major temple and walk barefooted on hot pavement and rocky roads to the temple. Parts of India really need to get their acts together and treat visitors properly.

MUMBAI, INDIA: Mumbai Magic is as Magical as Ever--April 7, 2012
While this is the third time that we have visited Mumbai, our tour deserves a separate entry, which I will write eventually. Mumbai Magic provided us with an outstanding customized tour that showed us the contrasts of the city. The tour started with a stop at the Sassoon Docks, where the smell of fish overwhelmed us both with smell and sight. Then we traveled to Bandra, the wealthiest section of the city with its old money; Bandra, the "Queen of the Suburbs" with its new money; and Dharavi, Asia's largest slum that breaks any stereotypical depictions one has of the poor. This is the slum in which scenes for the Academy-Award winning movie, Slum Dog Millionaire, were shot. I am writing an article about Dharavi that I hope a newspaper or magazine will publish. Do any of you have any suggestions for publication to which I should submit the article?

DUBAI: Third Time's the Charm--April 12-13, 2012
The first time we visited Dubai, we were overwhelmed on a wonderful tour by how ostentatious and over the top the city was. The second time, we took the hop-on, hop-off bus and experienced a sandstorm. Dubai would not be our first choice for an overnight stay, but our two days in the city where everything is bigger, better, taller and faster were fantastic.

At 3:30 p.m. on the day we arrived in the city, we boarded our four-wheel drive vehicle for a drive into the desert to a simulated Bedouin village. Driving sideways on the sand dunes is an experience we will never forget. Activities at the village included sand boarding, camel riding, a typical Middle Eastern buffet dinner and a belly dancer from Egypt. The camel that I rode tried to help me lose five pounds from each cheek of my derriere by biting the pounds off. Thankfully, he was wearing a muzzle.

The second day, we were signed up for the ship's tour to the top of the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building, with it observation deck on the 124th floor. We had tried unsuccessfully to book our own "journey to the top" to learn that all of the tours had been sold out. We learned from our tour guide that Dubai experienced a record-number of cruise ships the day we visited so we knew the cruise ships had purchased all the tickets. When the bus stopped at the Mall of the Emirates where we could watch the people at Ski Dubai, our tour guide informed us that we had to be back on the bus at 10:50 a.m. to make our 11:30 time for our ride to the top. Everyone was on the bus on time except one couple whom we learned were always late. It shocked me that the passengers who had traveled with this couple on previous tours started to shout that we should leave without them so we did not miss the main attraction of our tour. David, the choir director who was our escort, ran back into the mall and saw the pair on the top floor trying to find their way out. When they boarded the bus, the other passengers actually booed. The couple was never late again that day.

So off the bus raced to the parking lot for the tower, which is the translation for Burj. We made it to the entrance at exactly 11:30. Then wove around in a long line until clearing security at 11:55. Then we waited in another long line until 12:30 p.m. to take the one-minute ride in the elevator. While we could not feel that we were moving at a high rate of speed, my ears popped at about the 100th floor. Once we reached the observation terrace, we were treated to 360 degree sweeping views of all of Dubai. The desert actually starts right after the buildings end. Then we waited in another long line to take the elevator down. The major attraction on this floor after the views was an ATM that offered "Gold to Go." Our tour guide had informed us that the entire experience usually takes one hour but our trip to and from the top took two.

Once we were all back on the bus, our guide gave us a mini-tour of major tourist attractions in Dubai with stops to take all the appropriate photographs. This guide and tour exceeded all expectations!

NOTE: Attached are pictures from Guam, Busan, Phuket and Dubai.

Vietnam: Tunnel Rats for a Day

Most passengers whose ships dock at Phy My plan to visit Ho Chi Minh City. However, Ken had other plans for us--a long bus ride into the countryside to see the Cu Chi Tunnels. During the Vietnam War, his cousin Ricky was a tunnel rat in these tunnels. More than 10,000 people fought in these tunnels during that war and many never made it our of the tunnels because there was no map of the tunnels, which covered 165 to 170 kilometers. Fortunately, Ken's cousin did.

Our tour guide Thanh told us his English name was Mervin while our driver Vu's English name was Traffic Hero. To drive in Vietnam, one needs good nerves, good heart, good brakes and good luck. If one owns one of the 40 million motorbikes of the 90 million residents, he or she also need a good helmet. About 15,000 people die annually in motorcycle accidents. To obtain a driver's license for any type of motor vehicle, a resident goes to school for one day. If that person passes the driver's test, a license is granted for life.

Some interesting facts and insights that Thanh shared with us included: the Vietnam War was a battlefield between Socialism and Capitalism ideologies; 7.8 million soldiers came to Vietnam during the war; Viet Cong stood for Vietnam Communism; four relatives of his died fighting the war; the Vietnam War lasted 17 years, six months and 30 days; the Communists talked a beautiful talk that made the residents ready to die for freedom; and Communism makes people lazy because everyone receives the same thing despite the amount of effort.

Thanh explained that the tunnels were built in Cu Chi for three reasons: (1) hard soil; (2) location between two rivers made it easy to escape; and (3) water hyacinth provides camouflage and is also good to eat. In addition, the biggest U.S. military base in Vietnam was in Cu Chi. The Vietnamese dug the tunnels by hand with hoes and used bamboo baskets to carry the soil to sites where they built mountains of soil with a bomb in the middle. The tunnels were very well organized with many rooms and formed an underground village. The entrances were so well camouflaged that the country is still not sure that all the entrances have been uncovered yet.

The Cu Chi Tunnels today are a well-done tourist attraction. We saw exhibits of the weapons that were used and the different types of booby traps, were offered an opportunity to shoot AK-47 rifles, viewed life-sized dioramas of uniforms worn by the military and life inside and outside of the tunnels, and walked stooped over inside a section of the tunnel that had expanded to accommodate the taller foreign visitors.

Vietnam also engaged in a conflict with China in 1979 and sent troops to Cambodia in 1978, withdrawing in 1988 so for a considerable period of time, the country suffered. In the village in which Thanh was born and grew up, life was hard with low technology equipment for farming, no chemical fertilizers, little land to farm because of landmine, lack of electricity, one television among 3,000 residents, little knowledge of the weather and hunger as a common companion. Now life in South Vietnam is better according to Thanh. Hunger is not a problem, technology for both farming and predicting the weather are available, and the people have television in their homes but there still is no money for healthcare. The government is now a combination of Socialism and Communism but it works.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Navigating through Fiordland National Park

February 21 was billed as Scenic Cruising of Fiordland National Park on New Zealand's South Island. That meant we would not be debarking the ship but watching the scenery from Decks 9 or 10 and our balcony. While this may sound rather lame, we learned that most visitors to this park see it by boat.

The weather was billed as overcast with showers and intermittent periods of sunshine. While this also may not seem to be optimum, we quickly learned from our fellow passengers that this was the best possible weather for viewing the fiords. If the area has not received enough rainfall, we would have seen no waterfalls. If the day was constant rains and clouds, we could not see the mountain peaks. We were fortunate to experience the lush greenery, crystal-clear waters and snow-capped peaks in all their breathtaking beauty in between raindrops.

We entered the park at Milford Sound at about 8 a.m. with on-deck commentary from Debbie, our port destination lecturer, commentating from the Bridge. At 9 a.m., we enjoyed a Fiordland Champagne Celebration while huddling under any coverings on the open decks to escape the raindrops. At about 1 p.m., we entered Thompson Sound, which we exited at about 2:15 p.m., and then entered Dusky Sound at 3:30 p.m. for about an hour before heading out to the Tasman Sea for our trip to Tasmania.

Fiordland National Park, the biggest of the 14 national parks of New Zealand, is everything its publicity teams bills it to be. We will let Ken's photographs attest to this fact.

Sydney: Two Days Outside a Spectacular City

As the city that we have visited most outside the United States, Sydney is one of our favorite stops. As we sailed into Sydney, the Pacific Princess World Cruise 2012 Choir sang I Will Always Call Australia Home, the song that makes me cry and want to become an Australian. The woman with red hair in the first photograph is our friend and table mate, who will play an important role in this entry. While the ship offered an overnight stay, we spent our two day traveling two to three hours from the city to take a wine country tour and see the Blue Mountains. If we ever return, I think we should just bask in the spectacular sites in Sydney.

Day One: Wine Tour
We are up to go through immigration and meet at the McDonald's in Circular Quay by 9:30 a.m. to take a tour to Hunter Valley, 2 1/2 hours and 100 miles northwest of the Sydney. Our guide Nick told us that "it's wine o'clock somewhere." We traveled part of the way on Highway 1 that circumnavigates the continent of Australia. The mild summer with too much rain was not the best for the winemakers. If the growing season is too rainy, they face a good quantity of grapes but now quality. If a drought occurs, the grapes are good quality but not good quantity. Fortunately, 2011 was a good year. The typical hot summers are best for white wine grapes while shiraz is the main type of red wine grapes.

We drove through the little town of Kearsley that is known for "wines, vines and people" because many of the people who work in the vine industry live there. Our first stop was Kelman Vineyard, a boutique winery producing a beautiful range of premium and sweet wine from only 25 acres in Pokolbin, The grapes are handpicked allowing for premium quality. Jamie, our server who did not look old enough to be 18, was a gracious host who poured one delicious wine after another. The winery had a sale on its Chardonnay for 12 bottles for $60. Bernie, who we later learned was a classmate and good friend of George W. Bush at pilot school, suggested that we buy a case of wine at each of the three wineries we would visit and split them among the 11 people on the tour. We quickly agreed. In hindsight, we should have purchased three cases of the chardonnay because it was the best quality and best price of all the wines we tasted.

Our second stop was Poole's Rock Vineyard. This was an upscale winery with a modern chrome and straight-lined design where the wines ranged from $20 to $40. Our guide told us to check out the restrooms with their square toilets. This place lacked charm. Several people purchased individual bottles, and Jim convinced our hostess to sell him two wine glasses at $5 each.

The last stop was at Ernest Hill Winery with a great last and middle name for the men in the family. Wilson,the last name, is my mother's maiden name and Ernest is the middle name of all the males involved in the winery. Because the winery sits on a hill, the Hill in the name is obvious. This winery named several of its wines after deceased relatives. Because no relatives have died recently, the owners are taking the wine names from the different locations of the grapes. Again the wines ranged in price from $20 to $40 per bottle. So we returned to the ship and each couple took their two bottles of wine.

Ken did not want to leave the ship so we spent several hours in the spa watching the spectacular Sydney skyline as the day turned from sunshine to dusk. It was a very pleasant way to celebrate a wonderful tour of Australia's wine country.


Day Two: Blue Mountains
While we had visited the Blue Mountains last year, so named because of the blue haze that results from the eucalyptus trees, we decided to join a group of our fellow passengers from the ship who had discovered a very reasonably priced tour from a company called Oz Trails. Again, we all met at the McDonald,s on Circular Quay at 8 a.m. The lesson learned from our trip is that you get what you pay for and sometimes you end up paying more than you expected.

Our guide Gerard, a young John Travolta look-alike, was a one-man band in a setting that deserved a symphony orchestra. He both served as our guide and our driver. The van that picked us up was late and filled to the brim. Ken and I ended up setting in seats in the back that were one step lower than the rest of the van. This situation did not make for a comfortable ride and also ended up causing a problem for me when we returned to the ship, that I will describe later. The woman sitting in the third seat in the back row had a cold but decided to take the tour anyway because she had paid for it and was flying to Boston the next day. She was born in Germany. When I asked her about Dusseldorf, where we will be spending three days in early May before returning to Florida, she curtly replied that the only city worth visiting in Germany was Munich, her hometown. On further examination, she confessed that she had never been in Dusseldorf. I don't think one should critique cities that she has not seen. And the entire time she was degrading our choice to visit Dusseldorf, I was concerned that Ken or I would catch her cold.

When we arrived at the tourist attractions at the Blue Mountains, we learned that we need to pay an additional $25 Australian to see them. In this case, the woman with the cold acted as our money changer because she wanted to get rid of her Australian dollars. (In addition, neither Ken or I developed a cold.) We did learn about rainforests. Vines form a canopy of leaves on the top while the ferns on the bottom of the rainforest try to catch the sunlight coming through the canopy. Because the amount of rain is the same across the entire valley, the light is what makes a rainforest. Visitors do not see many animals in the rainforest because the animals are nocturnal. We did hear the sounds of the lyre bird that can mimic other sounds. When this flightless bird shows it tail feathers to attract female birds, he fans them out in the shape of a lyre, thus its name. We also saw the Katoomba Coal Mine that was opened in 1878 and once again learned the legend of the Three Sisters.

We ate lunch by buying ready made foods at a Woolworth's, Australia's grocery store. Unfortunately, unlike Ukrop's in Richmond, these grocery stores do not have any tables and chairs for shoppers so we sat on a bench inside the store while the cashiers and customers looked at us as an unusual sight. Then I had a strange encounter with our tour guide. When we got on the van, he either forgot that it was me or never really realized that I was one of his customers and proceeded to tell us about this "little old lady" who apologized to him for his mistake. I still cannot believe that Ken gave our guide a tip!

On the return trip at a scenic stop, our guide played the didgeredo for us (at least we knew what was in the mysterious package that took up valuable storage space in the back of the van) and explained the story behind a drawing by the Aboriginals. For a real tour, we should have had an Aboriginal do these things. This tour was certainly very low budget, and we got what we payed for! If we ever return to Sydney again, we will confine our touring to the spectacular city itself.

Oh yes, about my eye. The air conditioning in the bus blew directly on my right eye when I talked with Ken or looked out the window. That night when I tried to remove the contact lens from my right eye, I could not find it, probably because the direct air conditioning had dried it out and plastered it to my cornea. My eye hurt so much but I thought that after a good night's sleep, it would feel better. I couldn't sleep because of the pain so I went in the bathroom and eventually removed the contact from myAs eye. The next morning everything seen by my right eye was blurry. Lorraine, our doctor friend, looked at it and determined that I had scratched my cornea. For the next three days, I spent most of the time in our room with the draperies closed and used an eye patch under sunglasses when I ventured to the public areas on the ship. Then I could see again. The tour exacted a much higher price than I ever expected to pay.